Friday, April 17, 2015

Makeup palettes part 2

I made two more palettes and I took pics of the steps so I could share.

Here are the tools I used
Ruler, craft knife, pencil and glue (also used stick glue but could have used this just would need to spread it)

Here are materials I used

The metal box is 3 1/2 x 5 1 4 inch, scrapbook paper 5 x7 inches (used 1 full sheet plus portion of another), mat board, foam core strips, magnet with adhesive backing, vinyl from a see thru bag

1. Cut the mat board to 3 1/4 inch x 5 1/8 inch. I trimmed my corners as well.
2. Cut strips 1/4 inch wide from foam core board.  Glue onto the short ends.
3. Flip over and trim the foam core strips to match the mat board.
4. Cut a strip to fit between the two short ends. Glue one in place.
5. Apply glue to the back of the mat board and adhere to paper.  My paper was 5 x 7 inches so I had to deal with that.  Also cut paper to allow to fold over the long sides.
6. I had to add a piece of paper to cover the inside of the foam core frame - see the extra pieces added on the short ends.  Also I have covered the long foam core piece that I left off in step 4.  It is shown upside down in the middle.
7. Cut piece of vinyl and use packing tape to attach.  I cut mine shorter than the section, so I could still glue the paper to the mat board backing.
8. Shows the fourth piece covered in step 6 has now been glued in place.
9. Each corner needs to be covered by trimming and cutting slits to allow it fold and be glued in place with some overlap but not too much.
10. Magnet cut and ready to have the adhesive removed and put in place.
Add magnets to the back of pans and put into palette.
Love it!

Tuesday, April 14, 2015

My DIY makeup palette

This post is not about miniatures specifically – but it is related if you ever use eyeshadows in miniature projects.
Edited 2015/04/16 - to make this more mini related, other people mentioned that the pans make great pans in 1:12 scale, the round ones I show, well those could be small pond - both of these require to remove the makeup product.  The real big container held the pans in by plastic liner.  That liner could be salvaged and the bubbles also used for ponds.

Lately on the DIY list on Pinterest I have been seeing diy makeup palettes.  I have always loved the idea of a bunch of colors to choose from and so having eyeshadow and blush in different shades appeals to me.  But what does not appeal is all the different size and shape of the containers.  It is very inefficient if you want to use one color from this group and another color from another group.  Not that I am in any big hurry to do my makeup, just I like being organized and the multiple container idea is not that.
I have been looking at the various purchase options that are in my price point – Z Palette – which has several sizes and Uni Palette which is one size.  These are all great ideas, but my problem is that I wanted to have more than just the eyeshadow and blush together. 
Here is a pic of all my eyeshadow and blush before

Here is a pic of after I consolidated.

First I ordered some tin boxes on Amazon – these came as three pack.
While I was waiting for the tin boxes to arrive I depoted all my eyeshadow and blush.  This was a simple as using a thin blade and a heat source.  I used a straighter that I just got a thrift store the week before as my heat source.  I also scavenged around my house for the flat magnet stickers.  I had some on my fridge I was willing to use. 
I also had in my stash a tin box that a dvd came in.  This would have worked except for my magnets weren't strong enough to keep them in the lid.  I had so many they had to go in both the bottom and lid.  I did have some plastic to use as a divider between, but that didn’t help to keep them on the lid as it was opened. 
So then my three pack of tin boxes came – most of all my other makeup supplies fit into one of these tins.  I knew I was on the right track with this.
Next I considered how would my palettes be inside the tin.  I figured I could get 3 or 4.  Could I make them like a book?  Well, yes I could.  I did a mock up with paper and vinyl.  The paper was the pages the eyeshadow would be on and the vinyl would be my hinge.  The vinyl came from a bag with a zip top for holding travel size bottles.  I never used it for that as I had other solutions, but kept it around just in case.  So far I was ok with this plan.
So I cut out the mat board of backing, cut magnets the right size.  I needed to cut the corners as my tin has rounded edges.  I also needed to cut them a little smaller as the tin has a rolled edge.  After cutting these pieces I taped it all together to do a test fit. I was really glad I did the test fit mock up, as I did not like the book idea because of having them in the tin box.  Instead I decided I would be happy with just layering the 3-4 palettes in the box.  I did keep the vinyl as a tab to lift them out.
Next I considered whether the palette needed edges/framing or not.  The ones I see on Etsy have sides where the pans go.  The ones I saw in the DIY section on Pinterest used foam core board.  Initially I made one board without the edges and tried it.  
This stage was adding the fancy paper around my mat board.  This was super easy, just glue to one side of the mat board and then make cuts to the paper to allow it to be folded over smoothly and glued down.
Using double sided adhesive sheets to adhere the magnet to the board and having the vinyl sandwiched between magnet and covered board.  It was sticking out about an inch.
I tested this with the pans on it and my conclusion was that the edges/frame was needed.  Especially they were needed since my magnets weren't as strong as I liked.  So I cut a piece of foam core board slightly smaller than the covered mat board.  Then I measured ¼” in from all the edges and cut out a rectangle from the inside.  The ones I was seeing elsewhere were much wider – maybe ½” or more.  I don’t see why I should waste the space.
Covering the foam core piece was more difficult with it being a cutout.  So I determined I would just go with strips of foam core for the next one.  In each corner I had to add a strip of paper to the inside of the foam core section to cover it. 
To avoid having to cover the foam core with paper – one solution I think is being used on the ones on Etsy is black foam core board.  Either that or they are painting it all black.  Another seller was using wood that was painted in a coordinating color.  If I had black foam board, I might have gone that route.  Painted wood seems more work, although the paper covering may be fiddly and about the same.
Because my magnet was already adhered to the covered board, I just trimmed the magnet to fit inside my new covered foam core frame.  Gluing the frame to the paper covered mat board backing.
So here is the first one.

I knew I was going to make at least two more.  For these two I went with different paper.  My paper is smaller and so I had to work with that.  But over all I think these were easier to make.
These were made from 3 ¼” x 5 1/8” pieces of mat board.  The corners were trimmed off at an angle – not rounded.  The foam core frames were made from ¼” wide strips of foam core.  I glued the short ends on first.  These were glued flush to the outer edge.  Used the board as a guide to trim the foam strips to match the board.  Next I trimmed the long strips to fit between but only glued one in place.
The flat board of number two was glued to the paper with glue stick and number 3 with modge podge.  No difference with that.

I then began wrapping the paper over the rest of the board and frame together.  When I did this I cut straight cuts wherever possible.   The long piece was easily wrapped with my paper but the sides I had to add an extra piece inside the frame to make sure to cover the foam core.  Again this was due to my paper size that wasn’t big enough.
One solution to this would be to cover the board first.  It only needs to overlap less than ½” on the magnet side.  Then use another piece of a paper to cover each of the four pieces for the frame separately.   
I did exactly that to cover the 4th long frame piece I had set aside due to adding my vinyl tab/handle.  To add the vinyl,  I used packing tape to hold it in place on the mat board (partially covered side).  I cut it shorter than the width of the inside of the frame.  This allowed the 4th frame piece to be glued to the board at the ends.
Wrapping the paper over the frame pieces especially around corners was fiddly, but to keep it as neat as possible, I folded and creased first.  Then cut wherever was needed so I could wrap it neatly.  Ideally I wanted the entire white foam core board frame pieces to be covered with paper.
Once all was covered, I cut the magnet sheet to fit into the frame area.  For number two I had applied some double sided adhesive sheet that I had.  For number three I had bought some magnet sheets that have adhesive on them.  For number two I also had to piece together the magnet as was too narrow, but when the pans are in place this is not noticeable at all.
So here is all three palettes laid out.
The vinyl tabs don't show well in the pics, but they are there and are used to pick up the palette from the box. If one wanted to instead the tab could be made of paper.
I did coat number two and three with several layers of modge podge.  I will go back and do that for number one and number four if I make it, which I plan to.
All three of these palettes allow me to rearrange and play with my makeup far more than ever before.
All my spares are housed in the aol tin.
I haven't yet, but I am thinking I will add some decorative tape or paper to the outside of my tin box. 
I still have the third tin box, so once I make number four palette I can use that as my spare storage space for the makeup included other such as lip gloss or eye liner but I will make sure to have a divider like plastic or vinyl between.  
If I do make number four, I will try to take pictures as I go and update this blog post.  Plus share my other tin that has the brushes and eyeliner.  

Sunday, March 29, 2015

Display cases review

Protecting our Creations

I am a firm believer in protecting our creations.  One of the ways to do that is to cover them in glass or plastic.  
When I first started making miniatures, I didn't worry about this.  I was naive to say the least. This was a lesson that I learned the hard way.  As I finished my projects I set them around the house.  Typically on a shelf away from kitties or kiddies.  After a few years some of my minis succumb to the dust.  Real life - my real life - doesn't include dusting every week. There were other effects from being unprotected - color change - although that wasn't as obvious as the dust.
Recently I purchased some additional covers.  I wanted them because I had projects that I never bought covers for and I was displaying them in a public setting so wanted the protection from stray fingers. 
Because I know that it is important to cover and protect and also that I don't have a lot of funds to spend on miniatures period, I am always looking for good solutions at good prices.  

Glass domes

Typically, my local Michael's and Hobby Lobby have two sizes available: 8x12 and 4x8. These two sizes are good, but often I want something shorter than 12 but wider than 4.  My recent purchase was via Amazon. I found a 8x8 dome and base for what I considered a good price.  One thing that I have experienced with domes is that they can be too thin or too thick.  This recent purchase is too thick.  But I will use it.  It isn't as if I can identify that before ordering. If they are too thin, then they break more easily.  I broke a dome trying to open the package it was in.  Search for glass domes 8x8 or other size if looking on Amazon. You will get other sizes as well.
Other domes that I have used are cheese domes.  The disadvantage to these is the knob and how short they are. I made mine into a temporary display.  It didn't come with a base so I made one from foam core board.

Glass cases

I have a wood and glass basketball case that I got second hand.  These are the kinds that M and HL carry nowadays.  I have not really wanted these because of the big wood trim around, but since I have one now, I am not as bothered by it.  The advantage to buying at M or HL, I love using their coupons.  But I still consider them pricey.  I just have to remind myself these are an investment in my art.  
There are other types of glass cases - the seamless ones.  I don't have any of those.  Never found one that I wanted to use.  
The big disadvantage to any glass case/dome is the weight.  But the pro is that the glass is easier to clean, although glass can be scratched.
In addition to HL and M or ebay, can get these at Amazon too.


When it comes to plastic, I have been leery of buying these.  But thanks to a product called Brillianize, I am more likely to use plastic if it fits the size I need.  This product allows one to clean the plastic and polishes it as well.  It does need to be used with a soft cloth and not something like paper towels. I got mine at Amazon as well.  I ordered Brillianize with the soft cloths.
My new favorite plastic case is a football case 11.5x7x7.  I have tried two brands with same style: UltraPro and BallQube.  I got both from Amazon at different times.  These are two U shaped pieces that fit together snugly.  Dust protection this has.  They do come in a UV version for a few more dollars and it may be worth those extra if we think about the colorfast aspect.  UV protection will delay fading.  I don't know timing so this is just a consideration.
Both of these brands in the football case have round circles on the small ends.  Don't be fooled by pics that don't show these circles as they will have them.  These are to hold a football in place.  I believe they are molded in so unlikely to be removed easily or even giving a clear view if force-ably removed by say a moto tool.  
I used this for my Nursery Rhymes project. Although these pics do not show the round thing one can see the U shaped aspect.  The round thing I worked around so that when the case is closed over the project it doesn't obstruct the view of anything.  Which just means that as I added the three blind mice, I made sure they weren't under the darn round thing.
I do recommend that one open the box immediately upon arrival.  Inspect the plastic case closely.  My first one was damaged, but it was several weeks from arrival to when I removed the plastic covering.  I took it from the cardboard, but not the thin plastic.  

A slightly smaller size - is designed for a mini football helmet 7x5x5.  I have one of each of these brands.  In this size, I am going to stick with using one from BallQube.  It is made just like the football size one - but without the round circles for the end of the football.  The UltraPro version I have has edges that flare.  Think of an H on its side that is a box.  These flares aren't a problem, just looks and style wise BallQube is my preferred style.  
One of my 1:48 houses has needed a case for awhile.  I decided that if I was willing to chop off the corners of the roof, I could get it to fit in a 4x8 dome.  But thankfully with the new BallQube mini football helmet one that chopping is unnecessary. 
My local HL also has a third style by Pioneer Plastics.  This style is two pieces.  The bottom fits up into the cover.  The cover has boxy edges.  I used one in this style that is baseball size.  At the link, you can't see it in the box, but can see the base. This is a fine cover depending on what goes in it.  This brand comes in a variety of sizes, basketball, football, baseball, mini football helmet, softball and maybe even golf ball.  Depending on the packaging some have an extra plastic base usually in black.  My local HL has them without the base in the basketball size for around $20.

I also have used 4x4x4 cubes.  These I got mine from Uline which meant I had to buy a full case. I think I have seen these at the local hobby chain stores.  They are two part compuression fit with a more typical box and lid style.  I have used these frequently for my smaller scale projects. 
There are also this similar size that are two u shaped pieces - the old style photo cube. I pick these up even if slightly scratched and use them as risers when I display things.

One size that I am searching for is 6x6.  I have two cases (5x5x5 ) that I got on clearance from HL years ago.  These are really nice cases with a wood base.  I haven't seen anything like them but could be am looking in the wrong place.  They may have been intended for softball display but would give more room than softball requires.  Works fine for me of course.
Another solution I have tried is plastic doll cases.  There are different types.  One style I tried was a molded black plastic base, flexible plastic sides (they come flat) with a molded clear plastic cover.  These have a flimsyness about them, that I have steered away from. But one advantage is that even if too tall, they can be easily cut down.  However, don't let you cats knock them over - as they can crack.  
I also recently purchased a doll/car case at my local hobby chain store 12.5x5x5.  This one is two piece compression fit as well.  The base (back for dolls) fits up into the lid.  I bought two of these at M and they hold several projects at once.  They aren't  tall laid this way, so hence having more than one project in same case.  I would be unlikely to use this as they show for dolls the long side up and down as a dome would suit my tastes better.
Another type of case to look for is ones designed for displaying cars.  These are best for one story 1:48 scale.  

Of course another option is a custom made case.  Prices vary here, so check more than one site.  I bought one about 10 years ago from a miniaturist.  Sadly that person is no longer with us, but I know there are others out there.

There are of course many other sizes and I have used some of them.  Included a compression fit 2x2x3 to make small rooms for 1:48 scale, gift display boxes - the ones with the black base is the bottom, not an extra thing.  All of these will work, it all depends on the size of the project. 

Other sources for cases besides the local hobby stores like Hobby Lobby and Michael's and online like Amazon or ebay are sport shops and thrift stores.  Also any place that sells collectibles might have different sizes and styles.  When it comes to thrift stores this is always hit or miss, but I have gotten some great deals this way. 

Bases can be then made from foam core board, builders foam, wood (if you have the right equipment), cake stands or candle stands.  

Saturday, January 31, 2015

Day 31 of Organizing

This has been fun sharing with the internet my ideas on organizing this month.  I certainly have shared more than ever before.  I hope you enjoyed it as much as I have.  I will be indexing these ideas and posting it sometime in February.  
Today  I want to emphasize my ideas about organizing.


  • Should be fun not a chore - find a way to make it fun
  • Help you feel lighter - 
  • Free you of unwanted items
  • Be about recycling or repurposing when possible
  • Is about making your life easier - not more complicated
  • Hopefully will make you more productive
  • Should lessen the time it takes to find something 
  • Give you more time to spend making minis
  • Should work for you, not about what works for me
  • Should be Categorized for the way you look for things
  • Will take time
  • May help decide what you want to focus on
  • Should be simple as possible
  • Should help keep things from becoming damaged
  • Should help keep you from being damaged as well
  • Doesn't have to be expensive
  • Doesn't have to look pretty, although that is fun.
  • Should help to keep things used most often closer at hand 
  • Should help you find things quicker
  • Should help you to want to put things away
  • May become addictive
  • May spread to other areas of your life
  • Should be easy to maintain
  • May help you to be more creative
  • Should help make room for other minis
  • Solutions can be used in more ways than one
Until I post again....
Happy Miniaturing and Miniature Organizing!

Friday, January 30, 2015

Other Stuff and Things - Day 30 of 31 Days of Organizing

I have made crafts of some sort for as long as I can remember.  My main focus is miniatures but I still consider myself a scrapbooker.  Most of my other hobbies have fallen by the wayside and I did donate many of those supplies.  But I do still have a few that linger.
Since I still consider myself a scrapbooker - although I haven't done much of anything with that in over a year, I do have a dedicated area in my studio.  This is because I have the space.
This shelving unit is where that stuff is stored.  I have added extra shelves to make things more convenient to get to those items when need them.  I do use some of the tools from scrap-booking for minis - like the pink cutter that cuts paper.  The other is the black marker binder has markers that i use as needed for either hobby.  
Before I had this studio and these extra shelves, my scrapbook stuff was stored in tubs and it was mighty inconvenient when I wanted that pink cutter.  I didn't use it enough for minis to justify buying a second one.  But I do have certain tools that I keep duplicates of so are dedicated to one hobby or the other.

I don't make much in the way of dolls, so one box works.  There is some items in here, like ribbon, that realistically I could move to another storage location.

Crochet and Cross Stitch
Then here is another box of those related items.  My cross stitch thread is a cross over item, although maybe not as much as it used to be.  I collected quite a bit of it and so have two divided boxes nearly full of these stuff.  I have considered donating it, but not yet.
The thread boxes stack nicely under my ribbon and trim tin, so they may stay for a while longer.  They are organized by number as that is how I used them when doing cross stitching.  My dilemma with donating or selling is do I do so in the whole lot, or groups and also do I keep some colors just in case I need them for minis.

In the black shelf unit I showed above is a smaller plastic 3 drawer container.  It has all my sewing supplies left over from when I used to sew clothes and quilt.  I have one drawer of thread and I have considered donating that as well.  

For now while I have room for these things, I see no real reason to let go of them.  But I also accept that is not necessarily a reason to keep them.  To me donating or selling is as much about someone else getting use of them as it is to rid my self of them or make a few dollars.  

Come back tomorrow for Day 31 - my final post this month on Organizing,

Thursday, January 29, 2015

Swaps - Day 29 of 31 days of organizing

Swaps and Finished item storage
When it comes to storing these, the items stored don't have to be swaps (read more about what a swap is with this link), they could be items purchased or assembled.  These are just items that don't have a home(project) to go to.  

Packaging be gone One aspect of swaps is that they generally have some extra packaging.  I decided a long time ago to discard the packaging for two reasons.  One they take up space and second they make it hard to see what you have.  It isn't just about me being able to see but also I have shown off the wonderful items I have received.  BECAUSE I THINK THEY ARE REALLY COOL.
Who made it
BUT I do record who I got the item from and what it is.  I have learned to be very descriptive in the what so later it is easier to figure how the who.  I like to give credit to the who when the what finds a home.  I do this using Access, but a spreadsheet in Excel works too.  That is what I used before I switched to Access.
Here is my swap boxes.  I call them swap boxes although they do have items I have assembled from kits and therefore not really a swap item.  
I have each end labeled so that when I put them on the shelf, I don't have to worry which way.  
These boxes are fishing tackle type divided boxes.  Some have pre-set divider sections that can insert a divider in the slot and some have non-removable dividers. My preference is the removable ones.
Organized by Theme or Room
I organize the boxes by theme or room.  The one above (an old photo) has bedroom and living room furniture in it.  If I did a specific themed swap, then I usually have those grouped together for when the project gets done.
I do not usually put these items in with the kit they might go with.  Well unless they are both specific.  For example, if I had a project box started for the themed swap,I might. Like when I did an attic swap and we got an attic kit, the attic swaps and that kit were all housed together.  But if a finished item/swap could go in different projects and haven't decided which one yet, then it goes in these general boxes.  I do that because I may end up not using in the original intended project idea.  Could be it doesn't fit with my theme after all, don't have enough room or whatever.

For the most part these items are just inside the divider sections, really small items may get added to a small plastic box with mini-hold on them, but not all items.  If I take the box to show off (like after a big swap), then I use mini-hold on all the items.  But these are all for short trips.

One solution I might consider if I didn't have these plastic boxes, is make my own from cardboard. This would be similar to the trays I have for beads.  However the trays I made for swaps would be deeper to accommodate more items.  But I could still do the stacking within the larger box.  I would definitely add sections to give structure to the trays to keep an upper layer from crushing anything below.  The trays would need tabs at the end for sure to make it easy to lift them out.

Come back tomorrow for more organizing solutions - 2 days left in my 31 days.

Happy Miniature Organizing!

Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Go Digital - Day 28 of 31 Days of Organizing

As I alluded to yesterday, I am trying to go digital whenever possible including as it relates to minis.  There are several ways that I do that.

In order to go digital if one has paper saved, one needs a scanner.  I have a three in one (print, scan and copy).  
There are two basic ways to scan: photo or pdf.  I use photo if it is likely to be used in a document later or need printed on photo paper.  I use pdf if it is instructions or reference.  But can go either way (or even both) depending on what is scanned.
When scanning - ideally we should name it and put in the right folder as we are doing the scan process.  But it is ok to let the computer call it scan1, scan2 and then move it and rename it later.  Just do it sooner rather than later.  
I went through a bunch of my saved papers I and scanned them.  Or I recorded/typed the notes in OneNote - more on that below.

Naming and tagging digital items
When naming files or photos, I think it is important to either have them in a proper folder that helps me know what they are or take time to give it a really good name.  To save time later, we want to name them what the file or photo contains, not just the date when it was saved or taken.  Some photo programs allow one to add tags and that can be helpful later when doing searches.  Can also use Windows Explorer to add tags to files - select the file, without double clicking to open and then look for the Tag field.  Tags are something I haven't done much of, but would be useful if I took this time to do so.

Don't print
I try to avoid printing whenever I can.  If a kit instructor provides the instructions digitally online,  I print a copy to pdf.  Most computer these days have this automatic, but if not, just search for a print to pdf program and have that available when you print. 

Don't use paper to start with
This is hard for me but becoming easier as I get used to doing it. For years, I was accustomed to writing down my ideas, steps, notes or whatever.  But today, I try to use OneNote.  

OneNote is software by Microsoft that is similar in concept to a paper notebook/folder or binder with different sections.  Sections then have pages or sub-pages.  
I have three notebooks:
  • Just stuff - non mini - my everyday life)
  • My Projects - miniature projects
  • The Organized Miniaturist - this blog
So this is how it looks in OneNote
This pic is actually rotated - it normally shows as a side bar on the left.  

At the top are the sections within this notebook called 'My Project Ideas'
That * tab has a drop down arrow - which means I have even more sections (or tabs). The one to the right of that, is a new section button.
OneNote adds the sections(tabs) to the right as you add them, but then they can be rearranged or moved to another notebook if desired.  The colors are automatic but can be changed.
My sections are organized based on a project or a related topic.  There are many ways that I could do this.  By miniature scale would be one way.

Within each section, one then adds pages.  
The pages are what can be typed on or pictures added, or draw a sketch (with a mouse this is painful, but I have a stylus for my phone.)  If you add something here from the internet, OneNote will even paste in a link so you know where it came from.
The pages can also be sub-pages.  I use a page then as a cover page, then the sub-pages are the contents.
Sections can also be grouped, but found that doesn't work great on my phone.

Up to this point there isn't much that is too different from using folders on a computer or even paper, but look at the above pic at the top of it and you can see the Search box.  I know computers have search functions for files and folders, but I can say, not like this.  (I could have taken time to add tags, but I don't really need to do so in OneNote.  Although for other search functions it might be helpful.)
Let's say I am looking for "swaps", this is what OneNote found for me in my three notebooks:
I can then easily click on one of those and go to that page in whatever section.

One thing I love about OneNote - it AUTOMATICALLY SAVES.  I don't have to remember to save ever.  And I can look at that save information if I want to know when did I record this note.

Another thing I love - I can access it from any computer that has OneNote installed - I just have log in to see my notebooks.  So I can make a note about something on my phone and I can see that note on my netbook later.  I have been keeping track of the 31 ideas in OneNote and I can quickly see what my next topic is.  I take photos with my phone (with the regular camera but I could do it from OneNote if I wanted). I don't want to turn on the computer to see what I need pics of and with OneNote I don't have to.

If I do take a photo in OneNote - I can draw on it as well.

Yes, I can print from OneNote and it will add headers and page numbers automatically.

If you also use Outlook, you can flag as a task to be done.  I do use Outlook and I do flag emails, but I have found I don't particularly care to use this aspect of OneNote and Outlook together, at least not for minis. I also use OneNote in my real life (non-mini) job.

There is more to using OneNote that I have not touched on, but if interested one can review the help files in OneNote and also on the web. There are similar apps available that I have tried, but I am sticking with OneNote because I like the structure best of the ones I have seen and tried.

My Documents
Ok, so now I want to share about what I did and still have in place before OneNote.  It is a legacy system but I still use it as at least it is on the computer and it still works fine, just as a transition to using OneNote more and more I find I am not putting as much into these folders as I used to do, that is except for pictures.

I have a similar set up to OneNote with my folders:
  • General stuff folder
  • My Minis folder - pics and other files related to minis (This blog related stuff goes in here)
  • Other stuff that Windows organizes
All of this falls under the Documents library that Windows creates.  
Within the My Minis folder are folders:
- By scale
- By topic (not specific to scale) such as rabbits, raggedy, furniture ideas
In the by scale folder are folders such as '1-48 projects' and '1-48 projects completed' among many other folders.
In the 1-48 projects then are sub-folders then for each project.  Some of those then have additional sub-folders for ideas, instructions, particular aspect of the project, finished or in process pic folders.  
So this is how that looks:
My minis
 -1-48 projects
  - Bookhouse
   - in process pics
   - instructions
   - other misc ideas
 -1-48 projects completed
         with similar folders within
In the past the instructions would be done in Word or in Publisher.  But today, i would start them in OneNote, then once I needed to start preparing them to print, I would copy over into Word or Publisher.  This is because OneNote is great for taking notes, but Word and Publisher give better layout options.
My pics would be in the documents folders (Windows would recognize the folders for the My Pictures section as well).  
I also may have a pinterest board going that is related to any project I have in mind.  

Since I use my phone to take pics I do have a lot of miniature related pics on my phone.  I also organize these in albums by year or by scale.  The 'by year' is for non-mini and 'by scale' is for the mini related photos.  I find that having pics of minis (even the older ones I didn't take the photo using the phone to start with) are good to have on my phone so that I can share with others what I have made.  It is great to pull up my picturetrail site, but can't always do that if can't connect to the internet.
All photos mini related on my computer are filed under the Minis folder - I do allow Windows to also look for these folders based on having photos in them, but Pictures folder is not my go to for looking for mini related photos.

Come back to tomorrow for day 29 of 31 - getting near the end of my organizing blog spree.

Happy Miniature Organizing!